The Skin: Barrier or Sieve?

The skin is a kind of schizophrenic organ, both denying access to the body of some things while actively encouraging the passage of others. It is a selectively permeable membrane allowing substances such as dissolved salts to be excreted and others, such as fresh water selectively taken in.

Through to the middle of the 20th century, the skin was seen predominantly in its barrier role, preventing water loss, keeping the body out of contact with (most) noxious chemicals and inhibiting the ingress of bacteria through its acid-mantle. Dermatologists now know the skin is a much more subtle "barrier". For instance, the daily lathering of soap, a detergent, is counterproductive to healthy skin flora because a high pH soap alters the skin's acid mantle.

Human skin strikes a remarkable balance between rigidity and flexibility, permeability and water tightness, and without the ability to protect and moisturize itself (the skin is a self regulating organ) skin would literally desiccate and collapse. Which translates into: while we must moisturize, we must also recognize that skin needs to be given a break (from dusk to dawn) from a compulsion to be constantly slathering stuff on.
Allow your skin to Breathe. Feed your body a diet rich in fish and other natural oils and foods that nourish deeply the skin from within, which will also contribute to providing luster to the skin.

Source:
Lappe, Marc PhD (1996) "The Body's Edge - Our Cultural Obsession with Skin" Henry Holt & Co. New York

Marma Facial Points, stimulating Prana

Marma Point Massage for Face

"It is believed that prana, the body's vital 'air' or energy is similar to chi in Traditional Chinese Medicine nourishes the cellular system, as well as the mind and spirit. A key component in marma massage is the invigoration of free pranic flow: in early Hindu philosophy, prana was held to be the principle of vitality that could survive a person's last breath for eternity - or until a future life - so the effects of marma point massage are long term."

In TCM, there are thousands of pressure points, but only 107 exist in the Ayurvedic System, with the mind sometimes considered the 108th point. Marma points correspond the body's seven chakras...There are 37 facial points in the face and neck

Inglis, Kim - The Indian Spa - 2008 Talisman Singapore

Cistus - 'Anti-Wrinkle' par excellence

Cistus/Rock Rose - Cistus ladaniferus

One of my favorite fragrances is Cistus. I first fell in love with its dry/sweet/herbaceous scent when i was spending time in Mexico. As I would walk in the cool evenings (it was late spring) I would find my attention being riveted by a soulful scent wafting about in the mountain air which made me feel happy, secure, serene, peaceful. I finally tracked down the source of the scent... and discovered my love for cistus. An unassuming, scraggly, resinous plant with delicate, paper-thin & petal pink, rose-like blossoms. To my eye it was an odd combination of attributes, but i was enchanted.

In addition to its singular scent, it has a significant and important value in skin care as an anti-wrinkle supplement. Because I love the fragrance of cistus so much, I will often add 1 - 2 drops to my personal Pomegranate Repair Serum, which has no essential oils for a reason. I felt the formulation, a trio of highly nourishing oils, was already so impressive and effective in its action, working to reinforce the skin's structural integrity by boosting the appearance of sagging skin tissue, resulting in skin that appears firmer, plumper, more toned.

Nothing else was needed in our Pomegranate Repair Serum....unless you love the aroma of a quirky, scraggly, little drought resistant plant called cistus. I will try to locate some of the hydrosol - I have a few connections - and bottle it up for us all to saturate our skin with!

Cistus, also know as rock rose, is one of the ingredients in Rescue Remedy.

I guess should have taken a few drops before I took this picture.

[edited for clarity, i hope]

A Shea Treatment Mask for DESERT-DRY skin

Lovely, but dry.


This is an answer to a customer who has dry, flaky skin after years of over using corneolytic agents (AHAs, fruit enzymes, microdermabrasions etc) and wants a natural treatment mask that will restore, repair, revive and re-hydrate her desert-dry skin.

WHIPPED SHEA BUTTER w/ OLIVE LEAF TREATMENT MASK - with mists of Facial Tonic Hydrosols

Here’s how:

1/ After you cleanse with one of my Cleansing Milks - Rose or Blue Lavender - (always dilute w/ water) spray a mist of Facial Tonic Hydrosol all over skin, pat in.

2/ While skin is still moist, warm up a good fingerful of Whipped Shea Butter between palms of hands till warm and creamy, then apply in a layer all over face, concentrating on the areas that are especially dry, and massage into skin. Let it absorb for 5-20 minutes.

3/To Remove the Shea Mask: fill a basin with hot steamy water, dip your washcloth into the warm, steamy water, then wring it out and hold against skin for a few breath cycles (5-10 seconds). DO this 3-4 times and on the final one, wipe any remaining Shea Butter off skin. This is penetrating the nourishing SHEA BUTTER into the skin which heals, hydrates, revives and restores dry, flaky skin. Your skin will feel silky smooth and creamy!

Follow In the DAYTIME with mists of Facial Tonic Hydrosol – then massage 2-3 pumps of the Pomegranate Repair Serum into face. Mist again.

Alternatively, you can also add a finger tip amount of Shea Butter to the Pom Serum daily - if your skin is really dry.

Yoga + Menopause: The Skin Breathes

No, not me. I WISH!


Yoga is helpful in reducing anxiety, mood swings, depression and fatigue. Adding a daily routine is calming, introspective and restorative to the central nervous system, but did you know it can improve overall skin appearance, tone and function too?

Try these simple routines:

1/ NOURISH your skin - in the morning after cleansing, saturate your skin with any of my Facial Tonic Hydrosols and then pat fully into skin. Put two pumps of Pomegranate Repair Serum on your palms, rub together gently and press into slightly damp skin.

2/ RELAX all those tight muscles in the face by doing this simple movement: without opening your lips, separate the biting surfaces of your teeth, just let your jaw hang open, while keeping your lips closed. Inhale slowly - exhale completely. Notice how the tension and tightness held in the jaw and cheeks recedes. Continue the breath cycle by also releasing forehead, eyes, cheeks...

Breathe.

Happy Summer Solstice!

Sharing Inspirations - Tuberose

- Rainer Maria Rilke -

Despite the sky, still low,
and the hesitant air,
something new
floats into scent.

Some perfume, entirely green,
frees itself discreetly.
A pleasure begins to move;
spring is open

Want a Swine Remedy? Try Flowers!

The Terra Flora Gardens of fesflowers.com

Bach Flower Remedy for Swine Flu-feeling:

Gives you the comfort of emotional distance from your fears of falling ill, increases deep sense of well-being:

Aspen
Cherry Plum
Crab Apple
Mimulus
Star of Bethlehem
White Chestnut

Mix 2 drops from each remedy in a stock bottle (30ml) of brandy and take 4 drops, 4 times a day.

You may also want to add a drop or two of this mixture into your day moisturizer, or body lotion. Allow the gentle, protective nature of these flower vibrations to encircle your body.

check out the website: learnhomeopathynow.com for more information

Earth Day is everyday - 2009 - Be the Solution

Happy Earth Day - April 22, 2009!

An excerpt from AL Gore's Nobel Peace Prize speech:

"We, the human species, are confronting a planetary emergency – a threat to the survival of our civilization that is gathering ominous and destructive potential even as we gather here. But there is hopeful news as well: we have the ability to solve this crisis and avoid the worst – though not all – of its consequences, if we act boldly, decisively and quickly.
However, despite a growing number of honorable exceptions, too many of the world’s leaders are still best described in the words Winston Churchill applied to those who ignored Adolf Hitler’s threat: “They go on in strange paradox, decided only to be undecided, resolved to be irresolute, adamant for drift, solid for fluidity, all powerful to be impotent.”
So today, we dumped another 70 million tons of global-warming pollution into the thin shell of atmosphere surrounding our planet, as if it were an open sewer. And tomorrow, we will dump a slightly larger amount, with the cumulative concentrations now trapping more and more heat from the sun.
As a result, the earth has a fever. And the fever is rising. The experts have told us it is not a passing affliction that will heal by itself. We asked for a second opinion. And a third. And a fourth. And the consistent conclusion, restated with increasing alarm, is that something basic is wrong.
We are what is wrong, and we must make it right."


Earth Day April 22, 1970

May the heavens be peaceful. May the space between the sun, moon, and stars be peaceful. May the earth be tranquil. May the waters be calm. May all herbs be healthy and peaceful. May the vegetable kingdom nourish and be peaceful. May the elements and all luminous forces be peaceful. May our body, mind and soul be calm and joyful. May everything be at peace and may this peace be real. May peace and harmony flourish through all.
Om shanti shanti shanti

Vetiver - the fragrance of mother earth

I fell in love with vetitver essential oil (vetiveria zizanioides also known as Khus in India) many moons ago. I loved it so much I decided to create a creamy ode to vetiver for the face. It is a combination of nourishing floral oils, seed and fruit oils, and rich in the gentle harmony of vetiver, rose geranium, carrot seed, and precious rosa Damascena essential oils. This particular combination of essential oils are of exceptional value for treating the signs of aging and stress that appear on the skin as fine lines and wrinkles. Vetiver essential oil appears to be able to attract moisture to the face, adding a hydrating, plumping action to aging and dry, dehydrated skin conditions.
It is said that the ancient perfumers of Kannouj discovered that the most beautiful combination of fragrances were vetiver and rose. These two essential oils, each so complex scent-wise, are exact polar opposites. The tiny rootlets of vetiver that reach deep into the earth -vs- ethereal, thorny petal-sweetness of rose, whose warm, radiant, rosaceous bouquet was cherished by perfume connoisseurs around the world.

Vetiver or khus, is a grass that grows up to six feet high with an intricate thread-like root system that reaches deep into the moist earth. These tiny, compact rootlets provide a substantial scaffolding-effect to surrounding soil and are referred to as "living nails" in Indonesia for their ability to maintain areas of soil erosion. Vetiver's fragrance comes from these tiny rootlets which are saturated with the sweet, deep rich fragrant undertones reminiscent of precious woods or marshes. Vetiver exhibits different olfactory characteristics depending on the type of earth it grows in. Because of the diversity of compounds present in different soils, vetiver oil is one of the most biochemically complex of all essential oils.
Rose Vetiver Day Moisturizer

Vetiver belongs to the same botanical family as lemongrass, citronella and palmarosa and in some countries such as India its role as a perfume may even precede that of rose.
Since ancient times in India, the versatile qualities of vetiver roots have been used in other ways such as: woven into sweet sleeping mats or hung as curtains in desert homes; when the fierce hot winds blow people sprinkle water on these woven grass curtains which then release sweet cooling vapors into the air. Dried roots are woven into sandals, mats, screens, window blinds, hand fans and ornamental baskets, plus aromatic sachets are used to fragrance bed linen and clothing garments.

Vetiver roots being woven into mats for natural cooling of the homes


Fragrance

At the heart of vetiver essential oil lies the scent and secrets of mother earth.
The fragrance of vetiver root is cool, deep, dark and mysterious. Its scent is a source of vital energy and regeneration and supports all those who have lost touch with the earth or with their roots. This earthy essential oil, from the tiny rootlets of a tropical grass, nourishes those who have cold feet or their heads in the clouds... If we loose contact with the ground beneath us we pay the price with a weakened immune system. When in touch with the earth, we breathe deeply, enjoy the magic of an open fire and feel the wind in our hair.

Vetiver essential oil is a fragrant remedy for exhausted women, it is peaceful and soul-soothing, bestowing calm and serenity on anyone who wears it...and is one of the essential oils in our Rose Vetiver Day Moisturizer.

"Vetiver blinds, that lend
To burning summer noons
The scented chill
Of winter nights."
Bihari(1595-1664)


Vetiver has been used for thousands of years in Ayurvedic medicine where it is considered to be anti-toxic, astringent, bitter and cooling, and was used for fevers and sweats, blood diseases, foul breath, headaches, infections, urinary ulcers, an antidote to poisoning as well as to strengthen the central nervous system and overcome depression, insomnia, anxiety and stress.

According to ancient inscriptions it was worn as a perfume by royalty, and it is still used in an estimated 30% of high-quality modern perfumes to create oriental notes and as a fixative.

In India vetiver is known as the ‘Oil of Tranquillity’ due to its grounding, soothing and calming effect on the psyche, but it also communicates this same grounding and strengthening - nurturing and revitalizing to the organ of skin - our flexible, supple, protective suit of armour. Physically, it strengthens connective tissue, restores balance to hormonal and emotional conditions, and has a regenerative action where ever it is applied. These attributes make it an exceptional oil to use in any area of skin care. The essential oil is beneficial for treating nervousness and exhaustion and is a particularly useful remedy for women whose diminished energy reserve makes them vulnerable under stress....who doesn't need that? Rubbing a small droplet of the essential oil on the wrists gives you emotional distance from the stresses of life - a diluted droplet applied to the forehead before bed soothes and calms an overactive mind.
Essential oil of vetiver has been known to balance overactive sebaceous glands which makes it perfect for controlling very oily skin and acne conditions. It encourages the production of sebum on dry and mature skin. It also has an impressive healing and rejuvenating action that can be put to good use for treating wounds, irritated skin, wrinkles and stretch marks. Used in massage it brings relief to arthritis, rheumatism and muscular aches and pains.
Vetiver oil is excellent for long term, deep-seated anxiety, depression and stress related conditions. It brings stability and strength to those who feel damaged by life’s circumstances and adversities, acting as a ‘grounding’ agent to the weary soul. It has the ability to help focus the mind and elicit concentration where endurance is required. Personally, I am addicted to its calming, equalizing effect on both my mind and skin.
Vetiver Hydrosol (not easy to find!) is another exceptional possibility for the holistic treatment of dry, irritated or sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis or sun burn. It bestows the same cooling, peaceful and hydrating effects of vetiver essential oil - and application is only a spray away! Saturating your skin daily with vetiver hydrosol will instantly restore suppleness, hydration and vitality to skin that suffers from dehydration, heat and rash. It appears to draw moisture to the skin making it an invaluable tonic spray for all skin conditions. The number one skin condition I saw in private practice was: dehydrated skin.
I recommend Suzanne Catty's website: acqua-vita [dot] com for Vetiver Hydrosol and many others. Suzanne's book "Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy" is a must read for anyone interested in these remarkable waters.


If you are interested in learning more about this very important grass, I highly recommend visiting: vetiver.org / The Vetiver Network International whose mission it is to promote the worldwide use of the Vetiver System (VS) for a sustainable environment particularly in relation to land and water..

Just for MEN - The 1-2-3 Basics

I have been asked by our male customers to make a few suggestions for their skin using my products and my husband has suggested I keep this information as brief as I can (he caps the male attention span at 30 seconds)...I'll try!
Here goes:

First things first: I developed my line for skin. The truth is, men and women's skin care needs differ very little. Besides the obvious, shaving and hormones, human skin requires the same basics. Assuming you are healthy, your skin is capable of take care of itself regardless of whether you are male or female. This is tapping into the wisdom inherent in a healthy body: homeostasis, metabolic equilibrium.
The treatment and selection of products that aim to re-hydrate, nourish and moisturize will be the same. This is the simplicity and wisdom of intelligent, holistic skincare.

Let's start with the basics of how (and why) the skin (re)acts and adapts:

One of the skin's many complex functions is to interact with other organs of digestion. Along with the lungs and kidneys, the skin, through its thousands of tiny dermal pores releases toxins and the metabolic by-products of digestion and other impurities.

Worth Noting:
It takes 60 days to change the skin's condition. This is a fact that bears remembering since we are a society that likes to see instant change. When working with any organ system, especially the one that you can see (the skin) remember that you are on "body-time" and it takes time to correct and restore normal function to skin.... Most disease processes on the skin have been going on long before they become apparent to the eye.

The skin literally ‘breathes’; it has an inhalation and exhalation function. This exhalation function is one way the body releases -or- exhales- impurities. And I don't know about you, but I want to keep this releasing mechanism functioning at all times.

The moisture balance of the skin (as simple as oil and water) was developed by Mother Nature, not by Estee Lauder. Our skin is the on-site manufacturer of a perfect balance of these vitalizing and protective oils and waters, and under ideal conditions, nothing more is required to keep the skin's appearance creamy smooth, supple and functioning in a healthy manner. But because we may be subjected to environmental toxins, physical and/or emotional stresses, poor dietary choices, fluctuating hormones, etc, and the possibility that the skin care products you are using are filled with synthetic ingredients and not be doing their job, we are "faced" with troubled skin.

A few dos and don'ts:

• Don't bother "typing" your skin - holistic skin care strives to balance all skin conditions, hence my next suggestion:

• Don't buy 'oil control' products

• Don't over exfoliate, men who shave daily already exfoliate. Using additional acids such as the AHAs: glycolic, salicylic; Vit C Esters, fruit acids, etc... is overkill and only creates more flaky dryness -or- excessive oiliness, and can also be responsible for broken capillaries (along with-over aggressive rubbing or scrubbing or too much sun exposure, etc...).

• Look for pH balanced cleansing creams or gels

• Avoid the use of alcohol-based toners or after shave products

Regarding skin "types":
It has been my experience as an aesthetician that the organ of the skin is constantly changing, adapting you to your environment. To 'type' with certain products (such as "oil control" products) is to limit it's functions, and only serves to block, counteract or suppress the skin's natural, inherent ability to self regulate. This, more than anything, is what perpetuates problem skin.
However, that said, it is helpful for most men to understand what the general skin conditions look like, below are simple descriptions - but remember, don't get attached to typing your skin, the goal is to encourage the skin to regulate itself.

Normal skin (almost no one has 'normal' skin)
• Small, clean pores
• Smooth complexion
• Firm skin elasticity
• Few blemishes or none at all

Oily Skin
• Large pores clogged with dirt and oil
• Skin is thick, sallow, insensitive to irritants
• Face is shiny, even after cleansing
• Few wrinkles or fine lines
• Problems with blemishes

Dry Skin
• Small or invisible pores
• Fine lines, especially around eyes
• The skin appears to 'crepe' or crinkle
• Men of color: Skin can appear grey or ashen
• Caucasians: Skin is thin, flaky, transparent

Combination Skin
• Shiny "T" zone (forehead, nose, chin)
• Large pores on nose
• Dry or normal eye areas, cheeks, neck
• Dry areas have small or invisible pores
• Fine lines around eyes

Sensitive skin
• Skin reacts to sun, wind, fabrics, cosmetics
• Exposed skin burns easily in direct sunlight
• Skin is dry and thin
• Skin always itches or stings
• Shaving is often extremely painful

SUGGESTIONS for BALANCING ALL SKIN CONDITIONS with evanhealy skin care:

1/ CLEANSE twice a day with evanhealy Rose or Blue Lavender Cleansing Milk -or- Tea Tree Gel (all pH balanced).

Into one or two pumps of cleanser in the palm of your hand, dribble a little water then massage cleanser thoroughly all round face for 10 seconds (or more if you want), always working in an upward motion.

Rinse well with warm water. Pat dry.

NOTE about SHAVING: TRY our BLUE LAVENDER CLEANSING MILK and/or TEA TREE GEL Cleanser, together or separately, they provide a 'slip' that is comfortable for shaving. The base is derived from coconut oil and can provide a clean, smooth base for shaving, while the organic plant oils in our formulation help to guard against redness and irritation and will leave skin feeling soft and moist with no uncomfortable dry or tight feeling. After, always spray generously with Facial Tonic Hydrosols and apply one or two pumps of RoseHip Serum.


2/ TONE - Generously spray (I use the word saturate) the entire face with Facial Tonic Hydrosols. Pat these antioxidant-rich, hydrating and oil-balancing waters completely into the skin with a pressing, rolling motion.

3/ MOISTURIZE - choose one of my Day Time Moisturizers for your skin (my husband prefers the oils for his sensitive-to-oil-prone, but not oily now, skin)

RoseHip Treatment Serum - Rose or Blue - for normal skin that tends to be normal to dry (my husband uses this one after shaving) Apply Daily with Tonic Hydrosol - Repairs skin, reduces inflammation, stimulates cellular renewal.

Pomegranate Treatment Serum - an exceptional antioxidant treatment for normal, dry, sensitive, flaky skin - a super nourishment for working to restore the skin's protective function. Apply 2-4 pumps daily, combined with any of my Facial Tonic Hydrosols.

Sea Algae Serum - A very sheer, anti-aging firming treatment. Apply 2-3 pumps after shaving - for skin that tend to be more normal to oily - or in need of an on-the-spot 'firming' treatment.

Rose Vetiver or Blue Chamomile Day Moisturizer - a fingerful massaged into skin. If you have drier skin in need of more nourishment, you may add one pump of any one of the Serums to a small amount of cream in the palm of the hand, then massage this combo into skin...

Oops, my 30 seconds are up...